Tha Tien

Near Tha Tien Market, the salty funk of dried seafood sneaks out of old shops in Tha Rong Mo Alley.

Pak Khlong Talat

Pak Khlong Talat is Bangkok’s famous flower market, so I arrived expecting flowers. My nose had other plans.

Song Wat

Cinnamon clocks in before the cafés do. Early in the morning, the old spice shops are already awake.

Ong Ang Canal

Cumin hits first. Then cardamom, cinnamon, and the warm, toasted smell of something frying in oil.